TEST: Eachine “BAT” QX105 (73g, 10×20 motors, F3 ARM core, Betaflight OSD, AIO 25mW 48CH)

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INTRODUCTION

In the QX’s serie, the Eachine QX105 represents in theory a major gap by integrating a F3 board with a builtin OSD, some strong 1020 brushed coreless motors and a FrSky D8 compatible receiver with a working telemetry. The FPV rig is still based on a 25mW AIO 600TVL CMOS 48CH FPV camera. For the first time and for a moderate price, we can have a FPV racer with both OSD & telemetry feedback.. A breakthrough in the domain.

BOX CONTENT

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+ 1 x Eachine “Bat” QX105 (with a 1S 600mAh LiPo with microLOSI connector)
+ 1 x USB charging cable
+ 1 x Parallel charging cable
+ 2 x Velcro bands
+ 2 x 1020 spare motors (1 CW, 1 CCW)
+ 4 x Spare props (2 CW, 2 CCW)
+ 1 x Prop remover wrench
+ 1 x Instruction manual (English)

Funny, I received a probably a pre-release version without the official packaging. It’s Eachine FB90 box presently

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No instruction manual but the electronic version can be found here: http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20170113040621Eachine%20BAT%20QX105%20User%20manual%20guide.pdf

OVERVIEW

The QX105 is almost full carbon based with a main 1mm lower unibody plate welcoming arms, a front camera support and uppser plate protecting mainly the electronic and the builtin buzzer. The machine is a 100mm model and at firt glance as soon as you carry the machine, you can fell the extra weight linked witn 10mmx20mm coreless motors.

-FRONT VIEW

If the FPV camera is well protected, it’s not the case of the cloverleaf antenna potentially breakabke after a fast forward crash.

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-SIDE VIEW

On the left side, only motor’s connectors are vidible. The special shape of the motor pod offer an ground clearance of 1.5-2cm.

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The right side welcomes the microUSB port of the AIOF3 flight controller when you can configure betaflight settings or flash a new version. Motors connector are basic 1.15mm 2 pins model. Originally, the 2.4G FrSky receiver antenna is installed on the top right of the FC as well as the bind button. Good news, the receiver is promised to be flashed with a firmware fixing the telemetry feedback.

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The Carbon structure has 1mm of thickness

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-REAR VIEW

As the QX95, a rear bar with four programmable LEDs is installed indicating by default left and right turning, stopping and throttle value.

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-UPPER VIEW

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Installed in the middle and jailed into the uppser carbon structure, a buzzer is here. By default, the buzzer emits as soon as the LiPo in load is below 3V… In practice, the variace of the voltage Under load is important and it’s not rare the machine starts to emits buzz after 1 or 2 min… A battery with a higher discharge rate should help a lot.

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-BOTTOM VIEW

The Four main FETs are installed backside. There are referenced as A08K 33, at least supporting some 6A … but are they strong enought for the big 10mmx20mm motors ? It’s an open question

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When the battery is installed via the velcro bands, the bottom side is much more protected from direct impact but not from water intruision.

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-WEIGHT

With everything installed: QX105 = Props + LiPo + velcro bands, the machine weights more than 73g !!!! so close to 18g more than a QX90 in the same configuration but with only 8mmx20mm motors ….

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Motors & Props

One on the main novelty … the 10x20mm coreless motor Dark edition assumed to spin faster

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They are installed/jailed into a plastic motor pod relatively rebust

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Something troubling.. Classic 1020 motors can draw up 11.5A at full load…. It means the MOSFET installed on the FC must be super strong…. and of course must handle at least 11.5A

66mm props are longer than classic Hubsan model. They are similar to the Parrot spider, known to bring the best thrust.

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More efficient props, means also more ampere drawn …. so making MOSFET even more fragile

LiPo

As for all QX’s models, the same 1S 600mAh LiPo with microLOSI connector. No discharge rate and no voltage protection….

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AIO FPV Camera module

A wide M7 lens with 120 degrees of FOV, more adapted for outdoors flights.

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The angle orientation can be set via the two latteral screws

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6 bands are supported for a total of 48 5.8G channels. To select a Vfreq Inside the current band, short press the rear camera button. To cycle between bands, a long-press (> 2s) is requiered

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The video signal is precize but the light sensitivity is far to perfect … CMOS 1/4″ camera don’t do miracle.

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At least, all OSD informations are perfectly displayed …. the battery voltage, the RSSI, the horizon line, the time ellapsed

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If the RSSI is expressed in %, the RSSI sent by telemetry is in dBm scale, so they are not matching.

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Disassembling

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The buzzer…. Of course assign a free switch to control it for the lost machine case… You can also localize via the RSSI values sent by telemetry of displayed on the screen πŸ™‚ That’s great πŸ™‚

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UNBOXING, ANALYSIS, BINDING, CONFIGURATION AND DEMO FLIGHT

The default PIDs are not adapted and lot of instabilities are present. More even close to 0%, the applied throttle is still strong and can be a source of crash. There is a weird behaviour of the throttle stick in practice. As you will see later, it’s probably linked with the relation between FC’s MOSFET and 1020 motors. For the punchout, first tests are disapointing … If you were expecting a monster of power with these 10x20mm, get away…. it’s not the case here. The thrust is comparable to the QX90 …. so less than the QX95… πŸ™

In a new attempt, I increased D values as depicted below

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If the machine become much more stable and flyable in all the three main flight modes, the throttle’s weird problem is still present. Generally, the FPV signal is precize but light transition management is poor … It’s not super easy to fly FPV relax.
Definitively this machine is not super powerful, not catastrophic but to perform flips & rolls, it won’t be super strong.

In any case, at the end of my video, after a small crash, a MOSFET burnt. Amazing …. πŸ™ and just after a moderate crash. Clearly it seems that trhottle behaviour and the poor durability of MOSFET with 10x20mm are linked …. IMHO, MOSFET are undersized …. stronger models should be installed on the AIOF3 for 1020 applications

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CONCLUSIONS

Harg …. a so frustrating situation…. and one more time the devil is in the detail. On paper, this machine was perfect… powerfull processor, fixed FrSky telemetry, builtin betaflight OSD, strong carbon structure, builtin buzzer and programmable LEDs…. But 4 black squares are killing most of the enthousiasm…. First of all, the throttle bahviour is hard to manage (still hovering at 10%), and the MOSFET seems to die relatively fast under stress…. If the QX105 with betaflight flies correctly, it’s not the expected and advertised monster of power…. IMHO, all the electronic should transfered on a QX90C plastic frame with 8mmx20mm motors … Everything would scale around 56-57g….

PROS

+ AIOF3 board with F3 processor
+ FrSky D8 receiver with working telemetry
+ BetaOSD integrated
+ Strong robust structure
+ Buzzer
+ 66mm props
+ Spare battery & motors

CONS

Undersized MOSFET for 1020 motors
– Weird throttle behaviour
– Not superpowerful
– Instable with default settings
– Relatively poor light sensitivity of the AIO FPV camera

dump_BF_3_0_1

This quadcopter have been courtesy provided by Banggood in order to make a fair and not biased review. I would like to thank them for this attitude.
You can find it actually for 79USD at http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-BAT-QX105-wAIOF3_BRUSHED-OSD-600TVL-CAM-1020-Motor-Buzzer-Micro-FPV-Racing-Quadcopter-BNF-p-1116393.html

25 Comments

  • scousethief says:

    Very good , we need to get these micro cameras changed for something more low-light friendly……………..and change the fets πŸ™‚

  • JSP says:

    Hello

    I lost all settings and I haven’t got any backup.
    Could you send me your settings (for betaflight)

    Thanks.

    JSP

  • Adrian says:

    Hello again,
    two Mosfets burned on my FC Board on the first Flights…wish i read your review first before i buy the FC Board.
    I found the replacement ones (AO3400), but i better want to use stronger ones that dont burn so fast or better never burn.
    Can you help me finding the right ones i need to buy ?
    I mean im Newbie and i dont know if i can simply buy any 10A Mosfets.

    Thank you !

  • James Donavan says:

    i to just got this 105 from banggood and first lightweight crash and it dont fly anymore did some trouble shooting and it seem to be short out from this same part does anyone know whyi

  • kileak says:

    Hi. i have a problem with my bat…if a put 10 % throttle ..it goes full throttel …also it doesnt connect to betaflight so i cant configure it …anyone had the same problem? …its the flysky version .

  • Dick Dick says:

    Hi,
    Thanks for your great review on that, if I saw this 2 weeks earlier, I think I won’t buy it πŸ™ .
    Anyway, this small machine is now on my hand. So, I am i looking for some advice and suggestions so that i can put it in th air.

    I am a new player in this hobby and I flying helicopter before.Β I have brought a QX105 without controller cos I want to use my existing contoller (Futaba FF9 z with Frsky 2.4 module).

    Binding seems ok as found the front LEDs changed flashing type when I throttle up. However no matter how I toggle channel 5 switch(2-way), the motor cannot armed and still not turning on. I didn’t try connect it to PC yet , so I would like to know, as stated in manual that better be 3-way switch for channel 5 (AUX 1), how can I arm motor by using my futaba contoller? Or it can be.done by connecting QX105 to PC using betaflight? If so, what steps I should follow?

    Thanks so much.Β 
    Regards,
    Dick.

    • SeByDocKy says:

      To use the arm switch, you will need to connect the machine to betaflight. By default the arming is done bu pushing the throttle stick in lower right position. If it’s not arming, it means that your the range covered is not large enought you must be between [1070 – 1950] for both the yaw and throttle directions at least. By connecting to betaflihgt, you can see in the receiver tab all these values in real time …. So betaflight connexion is a must to do for your from now

      • Dick Dick says:

        SeByDocKy,
        Thanks so much. So, if range is not large enough, can betaflight calibrate it?

        I will try this by next week when back home. πŸ˜‰

        Thanks so much.

        • SeByDocKy says:

          No … but don’t worry it’s a TX settings for sure πŸ™‚

          • Dick Dick says:

            thanks very much.
            Just back home, and yeah, good new is it armed by pushing throttle to conar position.

            However, bad new is after that, I just switch to use cleanflight, and don’t know/forget what I set, now it serms to no response to my controller even in betaflight. But i can see qx105 should aware I have turned on the controller as tge green led stop blinding when controller ON.

            Now, no matter I have set, it still no respone to all sticks and AUX1.

            Too bad for me.
            So how can I do now? Do you have any default setting for qx105? I have reset to default but no luck πŸ™

            My 105 said is buildin betaflight 3.0.1. Any my pc betaflight is 3.2
            Thanks
            Regards ,
            Dick

  • Dick Dick says:

    Dear Brothers,
    Finally I flashed my qx105 with 3.1.7 version.and now All the signal.and controls are back πŸ™‚

    However, regarding to arming, I found when i.push throttle to lower right position while trigger aux 1, in betaflight all motors turn on together with beep sound!! As long as motors are on, this beep sound cannot.stop!!@_@
    What’s wrong I did? I still not tried physically turn on the motors yet.

    Seems too much troubles but step to step being better.
    Thanks
    Dick

    • Dick Dick says:

      Ok…now, I tried test fly this morning, its very powerful. Armed without beep, so seems it’s only happened in betaflight.

      Up to this point, i have one stupid question — what mixing should be applied to qx105? I can find stable animation in betaflight (pid tab) and I just thought I can hover it, however, its another story when real flight, no matter I mixed all channel to throttle or leave each channel stand alone, when I push up throttle up around 40~50%, the motors on at high speed, and it will just roll forward (360degree?!) and drop. I fly it on my bed to prevent damage, so no problem at all.

      So, may I have any suggestion on that?
      Some observation:
      Betaflight:
      -in Motor Tab, I cannot find all motors move at same value, never, especially the motor #3, it will be the first horse running out, and automatically rised to top value without inceased my throttle stick. And other motors followed but with slower speed, but never reach top value.
      -in PID Tab, I can find the animation move, and I can control it to hovering(stable, no rotate, no roll) by using my controller.

      Real trial:
      When throttle 40~50%, motors are running full speed. After first drop, I just pick it up, hold it, and throttle up, change direction stick, feeling like direction is wrong.

      My controller is Futaba FF9 CHP (for heli and plane), with Frsky FF1 2.4G module.

      Any advice? I believe it will be a high performance drone if setting all right. Its really powerful.

      Thanks all
      Regards,
      Dick

      • SeByDocKy says:

        Check if the yaw board alignement is correct in the configuration panel… Probably you need to apply a 90 degrees rotation. Check the original config/video…. it will be displayed

        • Dick Dick says:

          Thanks πŸ˜‰
          Will definitly try it. ^_^ and will back here reporting.

          Thanks
          Dick

          • Dick Dick says:

            Desr Brother,
            Finally, I.get it DONE Now!! Wow, spent me another 3 hrs to setup. I am.not sure why and how it works now, I just finally set the TPA higher than Mid Thottle, snd it works great now!!! Crazy ,and conderful.
            I now set all rc rate to 0.2 first, once i can handle it, will higher thrm later 。 ;))
            Exciting. Learning curve is much longer than helicoptor ,or better say, setup and config learning is much longer. XD

            Thanks.
            Cheers
            Dick

            Noted: nothing changed in yaw nor pitch, etc

  • talha says:

    HI,

    My bat going to right all the time. My center point are 1500. when i increase the throttle it try to move forward and right. All the time it requires the little input from the sticks.

    • SeByDocKy says:

      Hummm can you check if the motor’s are correctly aligned vertically in the rubber O-ring pod ? Can you check the yaw board alignement in the configuration panel ?

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