TEST: FullSpeed TinyLeader, a 75mm HD FPV Tinywhoop/Cinewhoop

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INTRODUCTION

The Fullspeed TinyLeader HD is probably the first 75mm HD tinywhoop FPV racer. HD means here, thanks the Caddx Turtle 2, the possibility to record video footages in 1080p@60 resolution while broadcasting the FPV signal with low latency to be FPV racing compatible. This machine got a F4 based flight controller with a builtin OSD, some 8A 4-in-1 ESC in theory 3S capable DShot600 ready, 1103/11000Kv motors. Associated with the Caddx Turtle 2 (CT2), we have a VTX supporting 48CH with an output power up to 600mW. Good news, the VTX controls can be done via the OSD thanks to the support of the IRC tramp protocol. Let’s discover this news HD Tinywhoop/CineWhoop competitor.

BOX CONTENT

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+ 1 x TinyLeader HD
+ 2 x Stikers

That’s all … no battery, no extra props, no printed intruction manual and the more important as you will see no Caddx Turtle 2 OSD board to change the default camera settings. You will have to QRcode in order to download associated manuals.

OVERVIEW

In theory the TL-HD is a 75mm machine but as you can see, we have here a particular design where front motors distance is about 70mm while rear motor is 52mm. So clearly is not a clear X design and the general diagonal is about 80mm. Now with this particular motor’s layout, can we benefit some better flight behiaviour if a custome mixer matrix is taken into account in Betaflight ? That’s an open question.

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The lower frame is a simple 1mm carbon frame where each duct system is attached via three screws

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The duct system for each motor got 5 branches (versus 4 for 75mm machines in general) and jails particulary well each props.

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-FRONT VIEW
The yellow top canopy is 3D printed TPU based. The same as for the Non-HD version. Or here we have a much more wider lens associated with the CT2. The direct negative point is the lower tilt angle we can have, not below 15-20 degrees. For slow motion indoors applications can be a problem. An easy fix consists in cutting/enlarge the hole at bottom position.

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-SIDE VIEW
For the HD version, the 5.8G linear antenna can’t be installed anymore inside the central top canopy hole. It’s blocked by the CT2 main cable. On the front left side, can be found a 2p small connector to plug the OSD board.

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At least each motor are connected to the ESC via a simple 3 position plug… Good point for maintenance.

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One of the first really annoying point: the location of the main CT2 button (check inside the red circle in the photo below)… First the receiver is installed here as well…. and it’s pretty tricky to press on it to start or stop recording. More with the default settings of the CT2, the autorecording is not turned on by default. It means you will need to press twice this button for each battery. Take a teethpick to avoid any short while pressing this button.

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For the 2.4G antenna, at least this one can be installed inside the central top hole dislike the 5.8G antenna

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On the right side, the microUSB port for betaflight connexion. Good news, with the USD powering, the receiver is also turned on it will make the binding a little bit more easy.

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-REAR VIEW
No lights… but it’s not a big deal. The main lead connector is a XT30 model

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-UPPER VIEW
We can see clearly the original decentralized motor’s layout versus front to rear motors. Notice also the default prop out configuration. It should help a bit more the stabilization of the machine. At least minimizing the projection of grass on the lens.

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-BOTTOM VIEW
Each duct nylon based sustem is attached via 3 tiny screws. The default battery tray is perfect for 300mAh 2S LiPo… but useless for any 3S model. You will need to remove it and use a rubber band instead. What’s a pity that there are no latteral carbon hook to lock the rubber band

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Probably the most annoying point: the access of the VTX’s button. I spent more that 5min to find it !!!! so small, so well hidden. Look inside the red circle below… Crazy. Even if we have the possibility to control the machine via the OSD, if you want to unlock all VTX limitations (all 48CH and up to 600mW), you will need to press and hold this button more than 20s.

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-WEIGHT
The machine standalond is above 55g!!! a lot of extra weight linked mainly with the CT2. The new Modula 7 HD will be around 46g… so close to be 8g lighter.

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In comparaison with the non-HD 75mm Trashcan model

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With a 350mAh LiPo….

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So in 3S… clearly is much more an outdoors flyer.

Motors and props

1103/11000Kv not too fast for being 3S compatible

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40mm quadriblades… classic prop for such machine.

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Camera module

Dislike the Runcam Split 2 mini, the CT2 got a shorter lens with a wide FOV. Paradoxally is probably the trick to be jellofree at least versus the first batch of the RCSM2. It’s now know that first lens of the RCSM2 introduces a massive jello in the video recordings. One fix is to install such kind of wider lens. New batch of the RCSM2 now uses a news lens. Whatever, here with the CT2 we have already such lens. As you can see to downtild the lens, a fix consists in cutting the bottom part. Whateven you won’t be able to reach 0 degrees…. but something about 10 degrees. Why ? because the CT2 main camera body will be also blocked by the two lattera sides.

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UNBOXING, ANALYSIS, CONFIGURATION AND DEMO FLIGHT

First of all, I had to pick up somewhere an extra OSD board in order to change some default CT2 settings. For example, I turned on the auto recording to avoid to press the hidden button twice. The camera is in 16:9 aspect ratio by default and WDR is turned on too.

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Except these micro-fine tuning, the machine comes with Betaflight 3.5.1 and all default settings are all very well tuned for the machine. You will need just to add the RSSI on the AUX5 in the receiver tab and the RSSI info in the OSD layout. Except that, PIDs, rates, filter settings are very well designed for the machine.

I decided to fly mostly this machine in 3S setup in outdoors conditions. First take off with a nominal throttle input about 50%. In order to compare, in 3S it’s just a bit less powerfull than the Eachine Trashcan in 3S. I guess with some weight gained…. can be a different story.

In LOS condition, in angle mode, no drifts are observed, a good point for the Gyros…. The machine is fast, turns/banks pretty well…. I already start to like this machine… And now the most important….. In both the FPV live system and on the 1080p@60 videos, there is no jello !!!!!!! OMG that’s so so great….. a real tiny cinewhoop…. I can feel the huge difference with my last SPC-K1 and diatone R249+HD both equiped with the fault RCM2 lens (now they are shipped fixed). The machine is power enough for powerloop, prop wash are very limited…. It’s stable and precise in windfree condition…. Pure fun to fly with. I like this machine a lot. With a 350mAh LiPo, the flight duration was about 3min30s….. Probably with a better battery, I can reach 4min. During my multiple flight sessions, I crashed it many many time and the frame got nothing. A good point for the durability.

Before to conclude, be aware that the first batch got some weak FET…. and burnt immediatly as soon as you plug a 3S LiPo. I am lucky to received the fixed batch… and I think now it’s ok.

CONCLUSIONS

Don’t be impressed by the relatively long list of the negative points. Some can fixed for free, some are linked with a “fast design”…. but the much more important element is here. This machine a real 75mm/80mm cinewhoop able to shoot some jellofree 1080p@60 videos. That’s so so fun. It’s a good acro flyer… not a monster of power but powerfull enough for 90% of your FPV/race applications. It’s durable too for both indoors and outdoors applications. I can only recommend this machine but also have a look to the new Happymodel Modula 7 HD who will be introduce relatively soon.

PROS

COMPLETLY HD RECORDING JELLOFREE
+ Well tuned out of the box
+ Almost no prop wash
+ Super fun
+ Durable
+ VTX w/ IRC Tramp

CONS

– Heavy
– Very bad location of the VTX main button
– Bad location of the CT2 main button
– No 0 degrees tilt angle for indoors flight (need to cut the canopy to fix that)
– Micro SD card insertion/ejection can damage top metal cover of the microSD port
– No accessories (spare props, CT2 OSD board, battery)
– Battery tray not compatible with 3S batteries
– No custom mixer setting for the particular motor’s layout (should be a really a minor point)

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This quadcopter have been courtesy provided by Banggood in order to make a fair and not biased review. I would like to thank them for this attitude.
You can find it actually for 176USD at https://www.banggood.com/FullSpeed-TinyLeader-75mm-F4-2-3S-Whoop-FPV-Racing-Drone-1103-Motor-Caddx-Adjustable-Cam-600mW-VTX-p-1390447.html

6 Comments

  • Nikotttin says:

    How does it compare to the mobulaHD from a specs perspective? Is the weight/power ratio similar or worse?
    Generally looks like a sloppy stack of boards and cables… but amazing flights! I’m in love with jellow-free cinewhoops
    😍

  • John says:

    You will need just to add the RSSI on the AUX5 in the receiver tab and the RSSI info in the OSD layout. I did this and see a 49% constantly in my goggles. Also don’t see anything showing up in my controller window for RSSI. Anything else I need to look at?

    • SeByDocKy says:

      When the RSSI is forwared on the last channel, you cah see this latter moving (AUX5 for a D8, AUX12 for a D16). Basically the builtin FrSky received is not flashed with a RSSI compatible firmware. To see something else than 49%… you will need to flash it. No choice.

  • Chris says:

    Great review – thank you for sharing. It’s really a shame that the board for navigating the cameras OSD is missing, especially since auto recording is disabled.

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